“Later the road that is passed will not be an ordinary road anymore, but-” already to start climbing mountains, you have to use a 4WD car. Ordinary car no maybe to the top,” said the father, Mr. Kasim, his name is a native of Tengger who will then be our guide while in Bromo-Tengger Semeru National Park.
The jeep that we were riding did not go slowly, through the dense forest of Pananjakan which was blocked by fog. The atmosphere is terrible, if not to be called mystical. The steep turn of the road with less than five meters of visibility made my heart flutter. Plus Mr. Kasim drove his car at high speed.
“You already know the way, bro, every morning this is the condition,” replied the father casually while fixing the sarong worn on his body, occasionally smoking his cigarette.
I couldn’t help but grin as I continued to cling to the car door.
Contrasting north and south sides of Bromo. One is a sea of sand, the other is a savanna.
The temperature must be around ten degrees Celsius, more than that two layers of thick jacket I can’t stand the cold bromo in this early morning. “We have arrived at Pananjakan,” said Mr. Kasim.
In front of us the jeeps are parked neatly lengthwise which also brings the hunters sunrise. There are many stalls selling food here, there are also some people offering thick jackets for rent.
I immediately ordered an anti-cold medicine: Warm boiled noodles with eggs plus hot sweet tea!
It was still dark, but hundreds of people were already enthusiastic about welcoming the sunrise at Pananjakan Peak. Dozens of tripods with long white lenses are ready to pounce on bromo’s faces.
“In June, it is usually sunny every morning. Bromo, the shell, and semeru are all visible from the ascent,” explained Pak Kasim.
Here, not only local tourists fill the climbing area, but faces foreigner also not a few who are here. You know, apart from Bali, icon Indonesia is famous out there is Bromo. Even the lonely planet travel guide describes Bromo like this, “A lunaresque landscape of epic proportions and surreal beauty, Mount Bromo is one of Indonesia’s most breathtaking sights.”
It’s better to walk in Bromo. Enjoy the fresh air!
The time was 05.25, the sun was starting to show itself but the fog was still thick. People were getting restless, but suddenly a little tinge of sunshine appeared!
“Yeahhhhh….!’, everyone cheered while clapping. A moment later, the sun was covered in fog again. “Ooooowwwh…” the audience was disappointed. The incident repeated itself several times, and every time the sun appeared, in unison the para sunrise hunter it became like the audience of Tukul Arwana’s Four Eyes show.
“Eaaaa eaaa ..,” said the people in unison when the sun appeared, before then disappeared again. This is the funniest drama in my history watching the sunrise. End of story, thick fog covers, and view postcard classic bromo can’t be seen.
I am very disappointed. But, that’s nature, we can’t guess what surprises he will present.
***
Ranupane, a village of tengger residents in Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park
“Stop at your father’s house first, eat and take a shower before going home,” Pak Kasim was kind enough to invite us, whose face was already full of sand. Without shame, I can’t even refuse hehe.
“Please come inside, sir,” he said with a smile.
This house has a living room that is quite spacious compared to the surrounding rooms. Maybe it can be used for ‘arisan’ up to 30 people.
In the middle of the room there is a stove used for cooking and warming the body. In front of the stove, there are chairs that are arranged opposite each other like public transportation in the city. The ceiling above it was black because it was constantly being smoked by the stove.
Typical village in Tengger
“This is a place where the perch people gather, seek warmth, discuss, and welcome guests,” said the eunuch again.
He invited us to sit on the pawon to enjoy the typical perch dish; white corn instead of rice, young cauliflower vegetables, and sambal plecing. The sambal that tastes cold is almost gone from the spiciness!
Tengger people always give the highest appreciation to nature. Their lives cannot be separated from the nature of the tengger mountains. They are aware that nature will suffice it – if they just act and are not greedy.
The harmony between the balance of nature and the simplicity of life makes the Tengger people the substance of their life.
Bromo and the shell in the panorama
I am always impressed by the hospitality of the Tenggerese. Not this time I felt they really respect guests.
A year ago, when I had just come down from Mahameru – very weak and it was too late to catch the vegetable truck back to Tumpang – a Tenggerese asked me to stay at his house.
We were even served food, without having to pay a penny because at that time our money was only for the cost of going home.
Mount Semeru from the village of Tengger
Tengger, apart from being derived from the suffixes of its predecessors Roro An(teng) and Joko Se(ger), etymologically means without movement. In a sense that refers to virtuous behavior, simple and unpretentious, and do not want to mess around.
Except, they just want to live in harmony with nature.
In the distance, Mount Semeru is still proudly looking at us who are no bigger than the rocks that he vomited. Semeru, the eternal pinnacle of the gods, is part of the life of the Tenggerese.
It gives life to every resident of the perch, but also as a reminder – that death can come at any time.